Up next we have custom armors for the arms. Modding difficulty will depend on which gunpla or whatever you choose to mod. I would prefer the more recent releases of gunpla that have rotating upper arm parts over the old ones which arm rotation depends on plycaps near the elbows. As for aesthetics, I prefer arms that aren't too long or too large as I want to keep the proportions just right. But, as Meijin Kawaguchi said, "Gunpla is freedom!", be free to choose for yourself and don't just take my work for it.
I have two styles of modding arms: the full arm and the bracer type.FULL ARM
This is the one I use the most, that is, replacing the entire arm from the upper arm (humerus) joint. Depending on the type of arm you're going to use, there might be no need to mod at all. But according to experience, arm replacements that don't require any type of modification are very rare.
If you're lucky enough that your chosen arm joint is one with a hole or polycap that is an exact fit with the shinki's upper arm peg, then good for you. There might be sone minor adjustments like having the hole a tiny bit too small or too large, but as long as epoxy putty isn't involved, it can be easily rectified. An example of a "plug-and-play" arm replacement would be using 1/144 Susanowo's and 1/144 Nadleeh's arms.
As you can see, shinki upper arm peg fits nicely into the ball-type polycap in the Susanowo's arm joint, and the hole on the inside of Nadleeh's. Just plug it it, and you're done (paint is optional, but recommended).
However, most of the time, moderate modding is involved when there is no existing hole for the shinki upper arm peg to connect to. In these cases, I turn to the use of epoxy putty (the common general-purpose type that's common in hardware stores, but if you have hobby grade putty please use it by all means). The gist of it is filling up the inside of the upper arm with putty and then making a hole for the shinki to connect to.
1. Clear out the space in the upper arm. The depth of the space must be a little longer than the shinki upper arm peg. Just be careful not to remove too much that the elbow joint is affected, sometimes I had to glue the upper arm shell and the elbow part together for this to work. If the gunpla arm you chose already has enough free space, skip this step.
2. Fill in the space with epoxy putty, but not too much.
3. While the putty is still soft, coat a bit of talcum/baby powder on and around the shinki upper arm peg then carefully sink it into the putty. Make sure that everything is aligned properly. Hold for around a minute or so, then slowly pull them apart (the powder should keep the putty from sticking into the shinki peg). If done properly, there will be a correct-sized hole left in the putty. Wait for it to harden a bit more, then cut away the excess material.
4. Putty usually cures around 30min to 1 hour (with full strength at 24 hours). By then, combine the joints together. If the joint is a nice fit, rejoice! If the joint is loose, it's nothing a little super glue won't fix. Put a tiny dab of super glue on the end of a toothpick and smear it around the upper area of the hole, be careful not to let any glue into the bottom. After it fully dries, the super glue would have made the hole a tiny bit smaller and the joint will have become tighter. Just be careful not to make it too tight as you can damage the shinki peg, in which case use a bit of fine grit sandpaper or file to carefully expand the hole. Always make changes in the hole, never on the shinki peg.
Be sure to let the putty fully cure before leaving the joints together for long. Done correctly, the joint would have almost the same feeling as that if you're using the shinki's original arm. Make sure that the arm rotates freely. A bit of patience is the key, hurry too much and you risk fusing the joints together (since epoxy and/or super glue is involved), in which case, the worst case scenario would be to destroy the arm to save the shinki peg. If this ever happened to me (thankfully it hasn't!) I would rather destroy everything to save my shinki.
To add for aesthetics, use the upper arm spacer. That can make the joint look cleaner and better, but its use is up to your discretion.
As for the hands, you can use whatever's already connected there. I personally don't like gunpla hands on shinkis, they look bulky and don't hold weapons and things not intended for that specific gunpla's hands. Well, shinki hands aren't that good at holding stuff either, but to me they look a heck of a lot better. To use shinki hands on your custom arm, just do the steps above except on step one because all you really have to remove is the cup-shaped polycap that the gunpla's hand attaches to.BRACER TYPE
My Baby Razz, Ayu, is the only one sporting the bracer type armor. This type is armor for the forearms only, and works because Ayu has a small-type body. That means her arms are shorter and thinner than the standard body's, and makes it easier to get a hollowed out gunpla forearm and wear it without replacing her arm completely.
1. Choose a gunpla forearm to be modded into a bracer. Once cleared out of everything inside, it should have enough space to slide in the shinki's forearm (without the hands). Retain the polycap that the gunpla's hand connects to.
2. Drill a hole in the very center of the hand polycap. The shinki hand should fit snugly into the hole.
3. Since the insides of the gunpla forearm is hollowed out, the pegs that connect both halves are gone. Join them using super glue, but don't forget to return the hand polycap inside.
4. After the glue has completely dried, try out the bracer by sliding it over the shinki's forearm, then secure it by inserting the shinki's hand through the polycap and through the shinki's wrist hole.
The bracer type is good for when you want a "light armored" look for your shinki. And since you're already using the shinki's hand peg as a "lock" for the bracer, the use of gunpla hands is out of the question (unless the gunpla hand's ball-end wrist joint is replaced with a long thin peg similar to a shinki's hand's wrist peg).(To be continued...)