Stage one: Strip it down.
You wanna get your shinki into as many parts as possible before painting. a 00 sized screwdriver is required to get the main body parts open, but this is worth it. paint in the joints, particularly the hip and shoulder joints, can cause em to freeze up. I dont care that its more work, do eeet,
Stage 2 wash. odds on you;ve been playing with your shinki,. Your grubby little mits are full of finger oils, and they generaly repell most paint. So give her a light bath. Using a medium heat hairdryer on the parts afterwards (or just sun drying them) will ensure that corrosion is kept to an absolute minimum at this stage
Stage 3. Base coats. Most shinkis have VERY STRONG paint schemes on them already.
White or grey generally make the best bases, although for bood red, dark purples and metalics you can use black if you know the correct techniques.
stage 4. Basic colours. get these on however you like. Sometimes i airbrush, sometimes i hand paint. i dont spray on shinkis., but others have had success
Stage 5: Shading. I use a variety of acrylic inks to shade with
stage 6: Highlighting. this is also the stage in which you drybrush the metalic bits
Stage 7: the face. Do the head seperately, you will be glad you did. becasue its a doll, carefull attention should be paied to the face, consider using oil pastels in a similar fashion to makeup if you have makeup experience. You can paint the eyes, or use decals. I use and recomend parabox doll eye decals